Beauty and Inequality

How do beauty standards shape and reproduce social inequalities? We are a team of researchers from around the world who study how beauty contributes to social advantage and disadvantage. Our BINQ is funded by the European Research Council. We are based at KU Leuven University in Belgium.

meet
our dedicated team of experts

Meet our international team of researchers, brought together to study beauty’ – Directed by Prof. Dr. Giselinde Kuipers, a team of researchers from 5 different nationalities (Argentinian, Chinese, Dutch, Ghanian and Iranian) are bringing a unique set of experiences to the forefront of an innovative research project on beauty and social inequality.

How does
physical
beauty
contribute
to social
inequality?

This innovative, multidisciplinary, comparative project aims to build a comprehensive new theory that explains how evaluations of physical appearance work, and how they re/produce durable inequalities in today’s media-saturated, service-based, globalized consumer societies. It hypothesizes that 1. in 21st century societies beauty has become an important form of capital, for all genders across the life-course; 2. beauty as a form of capital intersects with existing axes of inequality like gender, race, class, age, sexuality, nationality; 3. the growing importance of appearance spawns new forms of inequality.

These hypotheses are investigated in 5 global cities on 4 continents: Accra, Buenos Aires, Brussels, Hong Kong and Tehran. An international team will employ a mixed-method design to study how aesthetic evaluations of appearance are shaped, and to identify the mechanisms by which these evaluations shape social dis/advantage.

This high risk/high gain project breaks new ground in our understanding of human beauty and its social consequences. It brings together scattered insights from many disciplines in a new theoretical model, and tests and refines this model with explorative (Q-sort, survey, ethnography) and hypothesis-testing (lab/field experiments) methods. It addresses central societal and scientific challenges by foregrounding the importance of a “soft” cultural factor in shaping social divides, and the growing role of media in shaping social dis/advantage and exclusion. All subprojects study two domains where mediatization has made appearance more salient: dating and job search. The project structure is designed to deal with its high risks: its global scope, multidisciplinarity and its ambition to simultaneously develop novel methods and a new theory. The project is led by a cultural sociologist with a strong track record in interdisciplinary and comparative research, and in analyzing the serious consequences of frivolous topics.

5 global cities on 4 continents: Accra, Buenos Aires, Brussels, Hong Kong and Tehran

Our cities

accra

Ghana’s vibrant capital city Accra is a fascinating intricate of ethnic diversity and a developing center for aesthetic cultures. Accra, which is situated along the Gulf of Guinea, has a lengthy history, a diverse population, and a distinctive fusion of tradition and modernity that have formed its unique position as a periphery hub to a variety of local and global beauty standards.

With a population of more than 1.4 million (GSS, 2021 PHC). Accra has a mixture of beauty cultures that incorporate both historical traditions and modern influences including clothing, hairstyle, skin colour, face, body shape, etc.  The city’s tech-savvy population has embraced platforms like Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter to showcase, challenge, and reshape beauty norms. Social media serves as a virtual space where traditional and contemporary beauty ideals are exchanged, critiqued, and redefined, and Accra is not an exception to this. The diverse neighborhoods of the city form a nuanced lens through which to examine how beauty standards are established and upheld. The socioeconomic diversity of Accra and the interaction of many ethnicities offer a nuanced perspective on how beauty has become an asset, and as a place where identifications and classifications are made.

Therefore, the city’s status as a peripheral hub to beauty cultures is a captivating subject of study. Hence, this subproject uses four distinct but related cases to see how beauty standards are used to create identifications and classifications and how these cultural processes lead to symbolic boundaries and inequalities in both online and offline places in Accra.

hong
kong

Known as a metropolitan city where the East meets the West, Hong Kong has a fascinating mixture of cultures. With its traditional Chinese roots, British colonial impact, local Cantonese culture, and cultural import from other East Asian countries, this city has great hybridity and diversity in the sphere of beauty. As such a “peripheral hub” (Kuipers, 2022), how beauty evaluations are shaped by culture will be very well demonstrated in this case. Along with culture, the population in Hong Kong also shows a large variety, which entails many kinds of inequalities across the society.

Since the end of the last century, consuming has become a significant lifestyle for people living in Hong Kong (Mathews and Liu, 2001), which not only renders beauty a central place in social life. It also provides a platform to manifest beauty under different cultural influences and social inequalities. To investigate how beauty evaluations are shaped by culture in Hong Kong and its relation to inequalities through a lens of consuming culture, I will conduct q-sort interviews combined with three case studies. How beauty standards are produced locally in TV channels will be examined as a case of consuming local culture.

The second case will be a K-pop cover group that shows how people consume imported cultures and put them into beauty practice. The last one is on what beauty products people consume in malls, based on how they make distinctions there.

buenos
aires

BINQ’s research in Buenos Aires makes its focuses on beauty and cultural elites. It sets to study how beauty is shaped within the city. Firstly, through a general but situated mapping of beauty evaluation and its implications in social inequality. In addition, regarding different subgroups of cultural elites such as political elites, football elites, and an ethnography over the exclusive neighborhood of Puerto Madero.

The history of Buenos Aires displays a constant tension over the definition of its own character and that of its inhabitants. Said tension has been accumulated and transferred onto social practices still ongoing, visible within the realm of beauty. Therein, distinction processes are performed, and symbolic boundaries are drawn in relation to beauty standards (re)producing social (dis)advantages.

The study of beauty through the cultural elites in Buenos Aires within the BINQ project aims to contribute to a comparative international study of the topic, offering a situated answer to how beauty and inequality are related, and what are the mechanisms in place at a macro, meso and micro level to (re)produce ongoing and new boundaries in social sorting, classification and exclusion.

tehran

The research focuses on cosmetic surgery in Tehran, Iran, where physical beauty has become a valuable form of social capital in a media-saturated consumer society. Despite economic challenges, cosmetic surgery has flourished in Iran, particularly for rhinoplasty. This is a paradox, as there are strict religious and political regulations on appearance, particularly for women, while the demand for cosmetic surgery is increasing. The research aims to explore the implications of cosmetic surgery within the sociocultural dynamics of Iran, particularly in relation to different forms of inequality. Through three case studies, the research will analyze medical clinics, cosmetic surgeons’ Instagram pages, and mixed urban areas in Tehran. Various research methods including interviews, ethnographic research, observation, and media analysis will be used to gain a comprehensive understanding of the cultural and social aspects of cosmetic surgery in Tehran and its relationship to inequality.

Tehran is an ideal case to study the relationship between beauty, cosmetic surgery and inequality because of its socio-economic diversity, gender dynamics, media and cultural influences, access to cosmetic surgery services and the intersection of cultural norms and values. In addition, the presence of social divisions, including religious, political, class, gender, and ethnic differences, coupled with Iran’s economic challenges, make Tehran a unique and relevant setting for exploring the complex interplay between beauty practices and various forms of inequality.

Sanne Pieters

Sanne Pieters is a PhD researcher in cultural sociology at KU Leuven university. Within the BINQ project, she researches beauty and inequality in Brussels, Belgium by focusing on bodywork and habitus. She holds a BSc in Sociology from the Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam as well an MSc in Sociology of Culture, Media and the Arts from the Erasmus Universiteit Rotterdam. Her research takes place at the intersection of media studies and cultural sociology and her current research interests include bodywork, aesthetic labour, ideological (online) subcultures and hegemonic gender identities. Aside from working as a sociologist, Sanne is part of an art collective in The Hague, the Netherlands where she collaborates on multidisciplinary art works and publications. She lives laughs loves in Brussels.  

Emmanuel Narh

Emmanuel had his bachelor’s degree in (B.A.) Social Sciences (Economics and Sociology) and master’s degree (M.Phil.) Sociology (Thesis: ‘Mobile phone use among adolescents and its implications on routine health checkups in Cape Coast Metropolis of Ghana’) respectively, both at the University of Cape Coast (UCC), Ghana. He is currently a Ph.D. (Social Sciences) Researcher at the Center for Sociological Research – KU Leuven (KUL) – Belgium, working on the Beauty and Inequality (BINQ) project. His research interests include culture and inequality, medical sociology, and masculinities.

Wanying Zhou

Wanying is a Chinese PhD researcher who studies beauty and inequality in Hong Kong on the BINQ Project. She got her Bachelor’s degree in English from Beijing Foreign Studies University in 2021 (thesis: The influence of watching K-pop on audience’s self-identity—from a gendered perspective). 

She graduated Magna Cum Laude from Master of Sociology in KU Leuven Belgium (thesis: Reconstructing beauty capital and its influence on self-identity—a case study of Chinese female students in Belgium). 

She also exchanged to Waseda University in Japan during her master program. Before she joined the team, she had working experience in local and international non-profit sector, including NGOs in China and the United Nations.  In her personal life, she enjoys dancing K-pop and travelling a lot.

Giselinde Kuipers

Giselinde Kuipers is a sociologist who studies frivolous things and their serious consequences.  She is a research professor at the Center for Sociological Research at KU Leuven University, and the principal investigator of the BINQ project. 

Giselinde received her PhD in sociology from the University of Amsterdam (2001). She has been at KU Leuven since 2019. 

Giselinde is a cultural and comparative sociologist who  studies how cultural standards are socially shaped  in and through increasingly globalized fields, and how these standards affect social interactions, identities and inequalities. She has published widely in English, Dutch and some other languages on humor, beauty, media, transnational culture, fashion, cycling, memes, and other frivolous things with serious consequences. She has done research in various European countries, the US, Hong Kong and China.

Giselinde has been working on the sociology of beauty since 2010, when she received an ERC starting grant to study the social shaping of beauty standards in fashion modelling. This project was made into a webcomic that can be read here. For more information on Giselinde and links to her publications please see her personal website or her university website 

Narges Pirhayati

Narges Pirhayati is an Iranian sociologist specializing in the sociology of beauty and its implications for social inequality. Currently, as a PhD student, she is working on the “Beauty and Inequality” project under the supervision of Dr. Giselinde Kuipers. Narges’s research primarily focuses on understanding the societal dynamics of beauty within the Iranian context. 

Having completed her Master’s degree in the sociology of law at the University of Isfahan, Narges redirected her research interests to the sociology of beauty. Her work involves examining the social and cultural dimensions of beauty in Iran and investigating how beauty standards impact individuals; experiences and contribute to patterns of inequality in society. 

With a strong commitment to advancing sociological research in Iran, Narges collaborates closely with Giselinde Kuipers to generate insights that inform and inspire positive social change.   

Carolina Rabasa Rucki

Carolina is an Argentinian PhD candidate at KU Leuven. Currently based in Brussels, she is working within the BINQ project in her research on beauty and inequality in Buenos Aires. She holds a Master’s in Public Policy and Development from FLACSO (thesis: ‘International cooperation (EU-LA) towards a public policy for gender equality’) and a Bachelor’s in Social Work from the University of Buenos Aires (thesis: ‘Social Intervention with groups on the promotion of gender rights and equality’).  Throughout her trajectory, she has worked on topics such as women and gender rights, the justice system, early childhood, youth, and elderly social problematics, amongst others, developing her skills as a researcher and policy analyst for the University of Buenos Aires and several public ministries of Argentina.